10
OPERATION
• Soil conditions are important for proper tilling. Tines will
not readily penetrate dry, hard soil which may contribute
to excessive bounce and difficult handling of your tiller.
Hard soil should be moistened before tilling; however,
extremely wet soil will “ball-up” or clump during tilling.
Wait until the soil is less wet in order to achieve the best
results. When tilling in the fall, remove vines and long
grass to prevent them from wrapping around the tine
shaft and slowing your tilling operation.
• Do not lean on handle. This takes weight off the wheels
and reduces traction. To get through a really tough
section of sod or hard ground, apply upward pressure on
handle or lower the depth stake.
FIG. 14
CULTIVATING
Cultivating is destroying the weeds between rows to prevent
them from robbing nourishment and moisture from the
plants. At the same time, breaking up the upper layer of soil
crust will help retain moisture in the soil. Best digging depth
is 1" to 3" (2.5-7.5 cm). Lower the outer side shields to
protect small plants from being buried.
• Cultivate up and down the rows at a speed which will
allow tines to uproot weeds and leave the ground in rough
condition, promoting no further growth of weeds and
grass (See Fig. 15).
FIG. 15
TILLING HINTS
CAUTION: Until you are accustomed to
handling your tiller, start actual field use
with throttle in slow position (mid-way
between “FAST” and “IDLE”).
• Tilling is digging into, turning over, and breaking up
packed soil before planting. Loose, unpacked soil helps
root growth. Best tilling depth is 4" to 6" (10-15 cm). A
tiller will also clear the soil of unwanted vegetation. The
decomposition of this vegetable matter enriches the
soil. Depending on the climate (rainfall and wind), it may
be advisable to till the soil at the end of the growing
season to further condition the soil.
• You will find tilling much easier if you leave a row untilled
between passes. Then go back between tilled rows.
(See Fig. 14) There are two reasons for doing this. First,
wide turns are much easier to negotiate than about-
faces. Second, the tiller won’t be pulling itself, and you,
toward the row next to it.
FIG. 13
TINE SHEAR PINS
The tine assemblies on your tiller are secured to the tine
shaft with shear pins (See “TINE REPLACEMENT” in the
Service and Adjustments section of this manual).
If the tiller is unusually overloaded or jammed, the shear pins
are designed to break before internal damage occurs to the
transmission.
• If shear pin(s) break, replace only with those shown in
the Repair Parts section of this manual.
CHOKE CONTROL
RECOIL STARTER
HANDLE
• Place throttle control in “FAST” position.
• Turn fuel shut-off valve 1/4 turn to open position.
• Move choke control to choke position.
• Grasp recoil starter handle with one hand and grasp tiller
handle with other hand. Pull rope out slowly until engine
reaches start of compression cycle (rope will pull slightly
harder at this point).
• Pull recoil starter handle quickly. Do not let starter
handle snap back against starter.
• If engine fires but does not start, move choke control to
half choke position. Pull recoil starter handle until engine
starts.
• When engine starts, slowly move choke control to
"RUN" position as engine warms up.
NOTE: A warm engine requires less choking to start.
• Move throttle control to desired running position.
• Allow engine to warm up for a few minutes before
engaging tines.
NOTE: If at a high altitude (3000 feet) or in cold temperatures
(below 32°F), the carburetor fuel mixture may need to be
adjusted for best engine performance. See "TO ADJUST
CARBURETOR" in the Service and Adjustments section of
this manual.
NOTE: If engine does not start, see troubleshooting points.
(18 pages)
(36 pages)
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